Our bus to our next stop, Siauliai in Lithuania,
didn’t leave until 3 so, after packing our bags, we meandered back to the Old Town to explore some of
the sights we wanted to see either more fully or for the first time.
To say
that the Old City
is an island is rather fanciful, but it is entirely surrounded by water. There
is a small canal that runs through a series of attractive parks so that was our
first destination. The canal is certainly not as magnificent as my hometown’s Rideau
Canal is but the parks all had well attended flower beds
throughout.
In one of the parks near the Freedom
Monument is Bastejkalns, the ‘high
point ’ of the city but not really more than a hiccup
with little waterfalls and pleasant terraces by the canal. Five stones nearby
commemorate the film cameramen and policemen killed there during the Soviet
attack in January 1991.
The Swedish Gate, below, built in 1698, is the only gate left in the city walls and through it, the condemned were led to their fate. The executioner lived in the apartment next door; he would place a rose on his window ledge on any morning he had to perform. Not a very pleasant association with roses, huh!
The street on the other side of the gate is lined by the yellow James’ Barracks erected by the occupying Swedes.
Just steps away were old houses built against the red-brick
city wall that has been partially restored. At the end of the street is Pulvertonis,
the Powder Tower ,
the last of the 18 city towers.
The sculpture below by Parliament recalls the pivotal days of January 1991 when
the people of Riga took to the
streets following the threat of direct presidential rule from Moscow
and the stationing of Soviet tanks.
We hadn’t had our daily dose of religion yet today so we strolled over to St. John’s Church that started life in 1234 as the chapel of a Dominican abbey. In 1330 it was enlarged and its buttresses became the dividing walls of the new side altars. It was taken from the Dominicans during the Reformation, and, in 1582 a divine service in Latvian was held there for the first time.
The interior was particularly stunning we both thought. Hope you agree, too, after seeing the photos below.
I was especially awestruck by the intricacy of the church's vaulted nave.
This image was on the side of a pew in the church. Perhaps it heartened back to the House of Blackheads we had seen a couple of days ago?
Outside the church is the Statue of the Bremen Town
Musicians from the Grimm fairy tale. It was a gift from the city of Bremen , Germany, the home of Bishop Albert, founder of Riga .
We heard a tour guide tell his group that the most luck is granted to those able
to touch the highest animal in the statue!
A short walk away was the Mentzendorff House, below, which was a prosperous German's home in the 17th-18th century although the building itself dates back to the 16th century. Among the former owners was the head of the city's Small Guild and the Master of the Order of the Blackheads who established a pharmacy on the property.
A ten minute walk further on, on narrow Peitavas iela (street in Latvian), we took a few minutes to reflect on the splendor of a synagogue that had been beautifully restored. How sad to learn that it is the only Jewish place of worship in Riga that survived the Nazi occupation of Latvia. It was spared only for fear that a fire might spread to other nearby buildings.
This was the first synagogue I have ever entered that took us immediately to the second floor; in other words, to the women's and children's section, which meant it was an Orthodox synagogue. We later discovered the door on the right of the entrance which led us to the first floor.
Like so many other synagogues we've been in in many other countries, the interior was painted a very peaceful shade of pale blue. I have no idea if that holds any particular significance or not. Ivy, Elaine or Rose: Do you know by chance?
A very unusual building interspersed among the Baroque masterpieces still in the Old Town:
Loved these flower beds by St. John Church as we finally made our way back to the hostel:Couldn't resist taking a picture of this sign in front of the kitchen sink at the hostel!
Great getting back to the hostel with enough time to relax for a couple of hours before we needed to leave for the bus station for the next stop in our adventure. We had checked out of our room this morning when we left for our own final discovery tour of Riga but the hostel staff had kindly agreed to store our luggage for us and said we could come back to eat lunch, watch the Olympics on TV, etc. The hostel had a fast internet connection so I spent most of the time loading pictures into a couple of blog posts so they at least would be ready for my descriptions, etc.
The moment we left the hostel, the heavens opened and we got drenched as we lugged our backpacks and duffle bags the ten or so minute walk to the bus station back over by the Central Market. Oh, what fun!
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